Pearlescence of the Future

Pearlescence of the Future uses biomimetics to build and construct the idea of sustainable pearl and nacre. Nacre is an outstanding organic-inorganic composite material, and it is the most studied material within the science community. However, what if there were no oysters or mollusks left for us to study? The initial idea originated from concentrating on raising the conservation importance of mollusk species in aquatic ecosystems, along with environmental challenges like global warming, overexploitation, the lack of worldwide pearl supply and the continuing increase in price. My project proposes the concept of a futuristic scenario in which oysters are completely instinctive and harvesting pearls will no longer be possible. Pearlescence of the Future can be accomplished by using cellulose to design and reimagine the future of nacre and pearl. Additionally, adapting the traditional workspace, tools, and techniques used to create pearl jewellery in the future

BACKGROUND

Nacre, also known as mother-of-pearl, is a remarkable composite material found in the shells of mollusks. It is renowned for its strength, iridescence and resilience. However, the depletion of oyster populations due to environmental challenges such as global warming and overexploitation poses a significant threat to the future availability of pearls. Recognising the importance of conserving mollusk species and the need for sustainable alternatives, Pearlescence of the Future proposes a paradigm shift in the way pearls are produced in the future.

HYPOTHESIS

Can biology and design bring awareness to overexploitation of mollusks’ and reimagine the process for pearls jewellery in the future?

RESULTS

• Creating a hybrid workspace between a laboratory and a jewellery studio, while preserving traditional techniques and combining them with innovative solutions.

• Adapting the traditional workspace, tools and techniques used to create pearl jewellery in the future.

• Raise awareness about the issues surrounding the culture pearl industry, including overexploitation and over-harvesting of oysters and mollusks.

PROCESS

RESEARCH & THE PROBLEM

85% loss worldwide: over the past two centuries due to overharvesting and oyster diseases, the oyster reefs have been in decline.

99% of Pearls on the market today are Cultured Pearls, only one-third of oysters are “recycled” and put through the culturing process again.

Overexploitation: aquaculture has contributed to destruction of natural pearl oyster beds and many formerly prolific reefs rendered as “functionally extinct”.

THE NARRATIVE

Molluscs are extremely important within the aquatic ecosystem. However, due to overharvesting and overexploitation the population of the oysters is dramatically declining. The overheating of the ocean can lead to them to be completely whipped out; therefore, my project proposes a new solution to grow and harvest pearls. Without using oysters to culture the pearls, this allows them to reproduce and restore the reef for them to continue to filter ocean water. The goal of this project is to create sustainable pearl jewellery out of regenerative materials.

PRIMARY RESEARCH

Through different activities of primary research using inventive methods such as questionnaires, market research, interviews with biologists, pearl jewellers and experts, also attending pearl stringing workshops, I was able to collect information directly from experts and consumers to get the unique data needed and analyse it with the project's goals and brief in mind.

PROTOTYPE

Based on the feedback and data gathered from my primary research, I successfully developed a miniature model to begin the physical design phase of my project. The prototype enables me, as the designer, to assess the practicality and test the current design by integrating a laboratory setup with a jewellery workshop together. Through this hybrid space, I explore the similarities and gain initial insights into the product's overall aesthetics and functionality.

OUTCOMES

Some key research takeaways from primary research

• Gained a better understanding of what consumers think of the aesthetic of future pearls and the creative applications for the future of pearl jewellery.

• I learned how to create pearl jewellery from the pearl stringing workshops that I can use during the final designing and creating stage of the project.

REFINE

IDEATION

The objective is to generate a vast amount of concepts around jewellery pieces (rings, necklaces and earrings) and the final hybrid workspace design to subsequently refine and narrow down to the most practical, aesthetically pleasing and innovative ones. The ideation process aims to stimulate the creation of new and improved design solutions and jewellery pieces that fit the description of the data from the research phase.

Necklace concepts

Ring & earring concepts

Table concepts

Chosen concept

VISUAL APPEAL:

THE JEWELLERY COLLECTION

The final designs were refined to maintain the pearl aesthetics by using recycled materials from jewellery making as the base material and using different shapes and styles of pearls for the jewellery collection to promote how regenerative materials can be made into jewellery that exudes beauty and elegance. This approach not only ensures sustainability but also opens up new possibilities for innovation in pearl cultivation.

Sustainable designed jewellery collection, using regenerative materials and waste from jewellery making.

Ring final prototypes

Necklace final prototype

Earring Prototype

THE HYBRID WORKSPACE

Building a table was essential for the project, as Pearlescence of the Future is introducing a new technique for growing pearl jewellery in the future. Therefore, creating the right workspace that is a cross between a hybrid lab environment and a jewellery workshop is essential. A working space that is suitable for the process of displaying, growing and making lab-grown pearls.

KEY AREAS

• A sterilised area: Due to working with laboratory equipment, a sterilised section of the table is equipped with UV steriliser to effectively kill all pathogens, moulds and dirt on the tools and equipment.

• Built-in incubator slot. Cellulose builds up the structural aspect of the pearl; therefore, it is important to have a constant stock of cellulose growing, which is critical for jewellery making.

• Jewellery display area: as a designer, it is important to see what you are creating; consequently, having a separate showcase area helps with visualisation.

Render of final prototype

Technical Drawing of final hybrid studio prototype

RESULTS:

FINAL PROTOTYPE

Pearlescence of the Future introduces a hybrid workspace that combines elements of a laboratory and a jewellery studio. Through the adaptation of existing spaces, this setup facilitates the production of lab-grown pearls while streamlining the workspace and simplifying the required tools and equipment. The workspace is divided into three sections: growing, fabrication/design, and display. The arrangement not only enables the entire process of producing lab-grown pearls but also provides consumers with an immersive experience, allowing them to see the entire production process firsthand.